Pokrovsk in japanese Ukraine is the birthplace of one of many world’s favorite carols, the Carol of the Bells.
However there are few indicators of Christmas within the metropolis this yr. Only a dusting of snow on abandoned streets and skeletal buildings – and the fixed sound of heavy shelling.
Pokrovsk is Russia’s subsequent goal. Its troops are actually lower than two miles (three kilometres) from the town centre.
And it is not simply buildings and houses which are being destroyed. Ukraine accuses Russia of making an attempt to erase its cultural identification too – together with its associations with that well-known carol.
Most of Pokrovsk’s inhabitants has already fled. The gasoline provide’s been turned off and lots of houses are with out electrical energy and water. Those that stay, like 59-year-old Ihor, solely break cowl to search out the naked necessities. He says it is like dwelling on a powder keg – you by no means know when or the place the subsequent shell will land.
Oksana, 43, says she’s too frightened to go away her house, however goes out throughout a lull within the shelling to search out wooden and coal to maintain heat.
She tells me she hopes Ukraine’s armed forces can maintain on to the town, however she thinks that is unlikely. Pokrovsk, she says, will in all probability fall.
The town has already ready for the worst. The statue of its well-known composer, Mykola Leontovych, has already been eliminated. The music college that bore his identify now lies boarded up and empty.
Leontovych will not be well-known within the West. However the tune he composed is acquainted around the globe – with its chime-like vocals. It is thought that Leontovych wrote the early scores of the composition, primarily based on a Ukrainian people chant, whereas he was dwelling and dealing in Pokrovsk between 1904 and 1908.
In Ukraine it is generally known as Shchedryk. To many of the world it grew to become generally known as the Carol of the Bells, after American composer Peter Wilhousky wrote English lyrics for the tune. The tune’s use within the Hollywood movie Dwelling Alone helped enhance its recognition.
Viktoria Ametova calls it “a masterpiece – the signature tune of Pokrovsk”. She too was till lately instructing music within the metropolis, within the college that bore Leontovych’s identify.
She’s now moved to the relative security of Dnipro. It is the place a lot of Pokrovsk’s former residents are nonetheless making an attempt to maintain the reminiscences of their former house alive.
Beneath a salvaged portrait of Leontovych, Viktoria watches as 13-year-old Anna Hasych strikes the acquainted chords of the carol on a piano.
The Hasych household fled Pokrovsk this summer season. However they’re decided to not neglect the place they nonetheless name house. Anna’s mom, Yulia, says she’s glad to see her daughters practising Shchedryk. “We cannot neglect the historical past of our city,” she says.
For Anna, the tune brings again reminiscences. “After I performed it at house it appeared comfortable. It jogged my memory of winter and Christmas,” she says. “Now it is extra of a tragic tune to me as a result of it jogs my memory of house, and I actually wish to return.”
However for one Ukrainian navy band, Shchedryk has turn out to be a tune to encourage resistance. They’re even enjoying it within the trenches – utilizing weapons as improvised devices.
They might be musicians, however their commander jogs my memory that they are troopers first. All have frolicked on the entrance line. Colonel Bohdan Zadorozhnyy, the top of the band and its conductor, says the tune helps lifts troopers spirits. “These beats and rhythms cheer up the fellows on the entrance line and encourage them to struggle,” he says.
22-year-old Roman makes use of a rocket launcher casing, crammed with rice, to shake vigorously in time with the music. Shchedryk, he says, is the “delight of our nation, it is freedom, it is in our souls, I get goosebumps from this tune”.
Colonel Zadorozhnyy says Shchedryk reveals that Ukraine is a civilised nation, now at warfare, combating for its identification.
Pokrovsk might nicely fall into Russian palms. However its persons are doing all they will to protect their tradition and identification.
The director of Pokrovsk’s Historical past Museum, Angelina Rozhkova, has already salvaged and transferred most of its prized possessions to security – together with artefacts from Leontovych’s life in Pokrovsk.
Russia, she says, does not simply wish to take Ukraine’s territory – “It needs to destroy our tradition and every little thing treasured to us”.
Angelina says the folks of Pokrovsk perceive they could by no means return, “however our coronary heart and souls don’t settle for that”. Therefore they’re doing every little thing they will to protect the previous. The brand new motto is “preserving and saving, equals successful”.
It is onerous to say you are successful when your metropolis’s being destroyed. However its folks, like Leontovych’s music, are displaying extraordinary resilience.
Leontovych’s life got here to an abrupt finish in 1921 when he was shot by a Soviet agent. His composition had turn out to be an emblem for the struggle for Ukraine’s independence. It nonetheless is.
Further reporting by Hanna Chornous and Anastasiia Levchenko