Michelin-star chef and rugby fanatic Michel Roux Jr. on a different kind of crunch…
Rugby World: ‘What is the first game you ever watched or played?
Michel Roux Jr.: “I’m 64 so we’re going back in history here! My first rugby memory would have been playing as a kid, I suppose. I played rugby at school, Emanuel in Battersea, throughout my teens. I was useless at football, so I did rugby and cross-country in the winter and cricket in the summer. Then seeing a game, I think it would have been Harlequins as I’ve grown up in South London, so they were my local team and I’ve always followed them.”
Who was your first rugby hero?
“Serge Blanco, without doubt. It was beautiful watching him play, he seemed to glide as opposed to run. He was a legend of a man, a legend of a player – the complete player. Watching him playing for France was always so special; they were the nation of flair. You never knew which France team would turn up on the day but they could come to life.
“They could also be riled easily, especially against England in ‘Le Crunch’, and it could boil over. But then you’d have Serge Blanco, who would just glide through. It was mesmerising. I’ve been lucky enough to meet Serge, funnily enough at The Stoop a while back. It was a European Cup game and I was in awe of him. I didn’t know what to say, I was speechless.”
Do you have any match-day routines?
“I always go to the club shop, weirdly. I’m a big fan of going in there and seeing if I can pick anything new up. I’ve got about four different Quins scarfs, a load of hats, gloves, key rings, the lot. I just can’t help myself!
Who is your Quins cult hero?
“I have always admired Chris Robshaw. There’s a bar named after him and for good reason, he’s an absolute legend. He got a lot of stick from people who didn’t understand rugby but he was phenomenal for Quins. He’s a true gentleman off the pitch, a great ambassador for the game and one of the best I’ve seen at The Stoop. I also have a soft spot for Nick Easter, the ultimate character.”
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Do you ever struggle with allegiances when France play England?
“Oh yes! I was born and raised in London but to French parents, so it’s a struggle. I will cheer on England all the way until the moment they run out against France. I have French blood running through my veins. It’s a difficult watch and I’m torn but when you watch France play, with their style, it’s beautiful rugby.
Where’s the best place you’ve watched a game?
“Biarritz is good, I went there with Quins. A great city for a weekend trip for rugby and culture. I was there when the weather was awful and the pitch was flooded unfortunately, but it’s the heartland of French rugby.
Which opposition player would you love to have seen play for Quins or France?
Roux Jr. think England fullback Jason Robinson is one of the greats (Laurent Baheux/Corbis/VCG via Getty Images)
“Billy Whizz, Jason Robinson! Absolutely electric feet. I remember him transitioning from rugby league and being incredible straightaway. He could single-handedly win you games. Imagine him in a France shirt with the likes of Frédéric Michalak!”
Who is your favourite current player?
“Antoine Dupont, what can I say? He has taken France by storm and brought so many more people into the sport. After the Olympics especially, he’s a character which rugby needs. Young people can look up to him as an ambassador for the sport and France.
If you were in the kitchen at your local club, what would you make for a post-game meal?
“Well, at this time of the year you will want a hearty stew of some kind, something that’s been slow-cooked with a tasty sauce. It would be braised ox cheek, marinated in red wine and slow-cooked for about seven hours alongside some garlic potatoes and a big glass of red wine.”
Where’s the strangest place you’ve seen a rugby player?
Who knew Serge Betsen was a prankster? (MARTIN BUREAU/AFP via Getty Images)
“Here’s one for you. So a few years ago I was in Lyon airport with my wife. We had just landed and I was queuing up for a taxi. Next thing you know, I’ve been rugby-tackled and gently put down on the floor. My wife screamed, I yelled and turned around to see the big, laughing face of Serge Betsen. To onlookers it must have looked so odd. He then picked me up and we had a hug!”
Of all the French Top 14 teams, which location offers the best away-day weekend for rugby and food?
“Without hesitation, it’s Lyon. It’s a beautiful city, everything is within walking distance, the food is exceptional and the rugby is pretty decent too. Lyon is, for me, the gastronomic capital of France. There are brilliant wine bars and a good market that does food too.
“If you’re there, try a quenelle, which is creamed fish or meat. They do a delicious pike quenelle which you may find a bit rich but Lyonnaise cuisine is all about indulgence. The Paul Bocuse market also does great oysters and offal, if that’s your thing!”
Have you acquired any memorabilia?
“Besides my Harlequins scarves, I have a few France and England shirts. I have one signed by the great Martin Johnson as a thank you. He had one of his retirement parties at my old restaurant, Le Gavroche.”
You can host three rugby guests at a dinner party – who would you invite?
“Serge Blanco, obviously. Then Brian Moore and Dan Biggar, who speaks perfect French and can be the go-between for Serge and Brian!”
This article on Michel Roux Jr. first appeared in the January 2023 issue of Rugby World.
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